Jeff’s reflections

We returned to the Abraham Hostel as our base for a week in Jerusalem. Our stay was punctuated by dinner visits with Israelis and casual walks through the neighborhoods and the Old City as well as a visit to the Israel Museum.

Our Hostel location is ideally situated adjacent to both Machana Yehuda Market and the Old City, so we can easily walk the most colorful and interesting neighborhoods, such as Nachlaot, and casually visit the sites.

Jerusalem has a religious intensity, archeological, and historical character that is both unique, yet familiar to both of us. We have each visited the Old City many times and still marvel at its concentrated diversity and allure.

It is now both cleaner and structurally upgraded to attract tourists who throng its narrow streets and enticing stalls. We continually return to the Jewish Quarter, which was destroyed during the Jordanian occupation from 1948-to 1967, when Jews were not permitted to visit their holy Western Wall. Yet today the Jewish Quarter sparkles with new structures, preservation of Roman antiquities, and the rebuilding of important Jewish sites such as the Hurva Synagogue.

We also frequented the Christian and Armenian Quarters and noticed how much upgrading and construction there is, complementing the Jewish Quarter renewal. We relish eating in Arab restaurants and enjoy the ambiance and friendly conversation. With the absence of tourists due to COVID, we can feel the hospitality and genuine relief from so many who rely on tourists and have struggled to maintain their livelihood during two years of COVID restrictions.

Many young Orthodox Jews (mostly men) enthusiastically mix with each other along with the multitudes who visit the Old City. The vibe is palpable, and we enjoy being spectators to the observant who engage in their piety and identity.

During our stay in Israel, there have been riots on the Temple Mount and a spate of terrorist killings throughout the country since March that have been a constant backdrop to our travels. While on the surface life appears normal, the tension and uneasy coexistence, particularly in Jerusalem, are constant. Yet, we feel safe and roam freely during all hours on the streets of Jerusalem and the Old City.

One of the many highlights of this week was our visit to the Israel Museum. Ilene enjoyed the art exhibits, while I took the archeological and Dead Sea Scrolls tours. The model of Jerusalem in the Temple era shows what existed before the Roman destruction in the 67-70 AD Revolt and how prominent the Second Temple was within the walled city that encompassed far more than the current Old City walls.

History permeates Jerusalem and we enjoy both the relics of old and the encounters with modern Jerusalem and its residents today. We plan to be back in Jerusalem for most of June to continue the experience.